Scotty Shelton, Chief of Training for Baton Rouge Fire sent in this tip he spotted out on the training ground. The tip is actually credited to Captain John Braud of Engine 6. He used 3/16 cord and tool dip to create a non-slip grip surface on his set of irons. It’s cheap, easy, and makes the tools readily identifiable. The set of irons are held together with a bungee cord that can also be used to hold back screen and storm doors. Check out the Tips from the Bucket Page for other great tips.
Thanks Scottie.
exactly what kind of cord was used?
Chris, It is showing here that some sort of cord was used but oxygen tubing works great also.
I like to use regular house wiring and strip it down to to a single strand…then wrap it with hockey stick tap…I like the dip idea but not sure how accessable it is…
On a different note… I am looking for an “Iowa American” made 8lb axe…I know they either went out of business or arent making them anymore….if you can help a Brother out let me know….
The rope was purchased a Home Depot and is 3/16″ poly. It looks like repelling rope, about $4 for 50′.
Lay a base coat of Plasti Dip (also available at Home Depot)on the handle and make the first wrap while still tacky (within 5 minutes of application). Make 2 coats of Dip and let set. Make 7 wraps as a “sacrifice wrap” then candy stripe with in 2″ of the fork and make 7 wraps for another “sacrifice wrap”. This was done without cutting the rope, but it is not essential to keep it is one piece.
Then make 4 coats of Dip. One can will be more than enough. When you cut the coating during Ops, just apply patch coats to repair. If the “sacrifice wraps” become damaged just cut them out and replace them. No need to re-wrap the entire tool. That is the point of the “sacrifice wrap”.
We use hockey stick tape here as well…it’s nice and tacky. We use regular twine to wrap the tool with. Under the same principle as acklan wrote, wrap a few pieces of tape around the tool to create the tacky base and then have at it.
I like the bungee cord idea to hold the tools together. Hadn’t thought of that one.
Stay safe out there.
The bungee cord also doubles to chock open a door. Hook it over both knobs and it won’t close.
Phone cord works great it is already coiled and holds up well on the tool.
The Plasti Dip is a great idea but how does it do in heat?
So far so good. It has not blistered to date.
Coupla years ago some guys from the Harrisburg, PA area had used the “Rhino-Lining” polyurethane rubber on their halligans as grip aids.
We use the cord and tape because it’s easy and available. I usually super glue the loose end down. I even put a little friction tape on the “pry end” of our NY roof hooks to give you that little extra grip when you’re really reaching out or probing in the vent hole.
Still, its’ great to see everyone coming up with ideas to make the job better!
You guys should get a real axe! You are not joining the two like they should be. That whole in the axe is for the adz end!
Been carrying that axe (one of three) for going on 20 years and I can assure you that is not what that “Hole” is there for. To each his own. I prefer it as pictured.
The last one had a gas shut off milled into the head near the blade. I just have not got around to that yet.
By the way the TNT is a 6 1\2lb, 35″ model, and the Halligan is a 30″ cast ProBar.
The “whole” is actually a “handle” for that tool to be used when pulling. If you look at the photo you’ll see the fork is somewhat married to the pike (lack of better word)portion of the TNT. I’m thinking if you place the adz end into the hole (handle), the two won’t marry very well at all. Both ends of the halligan would have to be secured since now the fork end isn’t married to the pike portion….everyone follow me (I doubt it..lol). The way acklan has it setup I’m thinking would work the best…you could still use the handle to carry the two.
Most importantly it works for acklan (the user)……there isn’t a “wrong way” here….depends on who’s carrying the tools.
Try it, you’ll like it! Unless you have small hands, then trying to grab it will be difficult. Still looks more professional than the strip of bungee cord.
except when you go looking for a bungie cord to chock open a door….lol
Thats what Nails and chocks are for. They dont melt!
The fork of the halligan slips over the hook of the TNT tool. I could have used a commerical nylon and velco strap. I just opted for a strap that had dual purpose rather than just marry the tools.
I do not carry it by the “D” handle on the TNT, I carry it mid-shaft by the TNT tool.
I have never seen a bundee cord melt while chocking a door.
We use hockey tape and automotive wire on our hooks and halligans, works great! Never thought about the Plasti-Dip, that would probably work even better! Does anyone here grind the fork end of their halligan’s? We carry the 30″ probars, if you grind the ridge down to make less of an angle it is easier when forcing doors. Just some food for thought.
Everyone has personnal preferences, I like the 6′ Hook and Halligan, it takes a little getting used to when carrying it but you’re never without two of the most useful tools on the fire ground. I’ve even been known to carry the hook/halligan and flathead axe……
As always, excellent site and excellent information!
Goody
WCFD
I think a 6′ hook is a great idea too. I just got one of the Deputy Chief to order a 6′ New York Roof hook for my Engine. I expect one of my privates to carry it.
While the hook on the TNT is marginal by most standard the trade off makes this the best pair for me.
We usually hit the door with a 4′ hook, 30″ ProBar, 36″ probar and a TNT. For the main types of fires we make this seems to be the best combo on initial attack.
I have a 17″ O-tool ordered. I will enjoy putting it through it’s paces.
We use parachute cord and wrap it with black hockey tape, but acklan how did you apply the dip to the halligan? I know it comes in a spray or dip, and I would love to borrow your idea and try it on my halligan. Thanks and great idea.
I used 1″ paint brushes. Apply a coat to the tool prior to making the first wrap and leave a small gap(Width of a business card) between each wrap, so the dip can get between them.
1 coat on the tool handle, 2 coats to the base wrap and 4 coats after the “sacrifice wraps” to top it off.
Start with a knot through the fork to hold the cord till you finish and hang a Vise Grip at the other end to hold tension while the dip sets. I did not let it dry between application, just get tacky.
You can also wrap the handle of your HOOK, SLEDGE, ETC. with nasal cannula tubing up the handle at an angle and then cross it the opposite direction back down to where you started if you dont have rope to use. Then wrap with hockey stick tape. THIS IS ABOUT AS CLOSE TO EMS AS I EVER WANT TO GET!!!!!!
Why not just cover your halligans in stick em if they are slipping out of your hands so much. I personally have never really had a problem with slippage but to each his own. We manicure our tools quite extensively in NY and that coating along the shaft or hockey tape would negate our using the shaft to slide the axe along to set the tool in lights out conditions.
“We manicure our tools quite extensively in NY…”
Paul could you elaborate on what you do to “manicure” the tool?
Where I work we do not make near the volume of fires that FDNY does, but I can say wrapping the handle has never been an issue with me. I am just curious.
We have done this to our pike poles, makes pulling ceiling, etc. far less fatiguing on hands and forearms. One problem that you may encounter with wrapping the Haligan is that you can no longer rest the axe head on the shaft to drive the fork. Enjoy the website. Great learning tool for rooks to graybeards.
I’m with Paul on this one. I find absolutely no need to have tape or anything on the Pro-Bar. Over the years I have used one I can truely say that it has been a better advantage having the ability to have a totally smooth handle surface than a taped one. When you are forcing doors you are holding on to the furthest part of the tool or the pike, not the center. Are we taping tools to be able to carry them easier?
There have been COUNTLESS times that when using a baseball bat swing I slid my hand down the tool for added force while striking. This can’t be done with the tape.
The tape also gets in the way when you are overhauling plaster lathe. You should be able to pierce the tool through the lathe and into the bay and then pull down unobstructed. The taped handle does not allow this to be done as easily. This technique also is good for breeching.
As mentioned by Paul it is a huge advantage to square off the fork end to permit the sliding of the axe along the shaft (don’t get excited….I did say shaft) in lights out conditions and in close hallways. If taped, this cannot be done.
The taped handle is hard to maintain, and looks like shite after a job…..Halligans should be SPOTLESS!
Tape or dip on Hooks – ABSOLUTELY A GREAT IDEA. Tape or dip on Halligan – NO GOOD… LETS STOP THIS TREND.
Of course this is all my 2 cents, take it with a grain of salt and stay safe!
Well Sean this is your opinion, and I respect it but I too have been doing this for many years and find the tape\dip an advantage. While sliding the axe\maul down the shaft is a good technique it is not the only option. If you like your tool untaped or undipped that is your option, but it does not mean it is the only way it has to be done.
As far as maintaining the tape or dip it is not any harder than keeping you axes sharp, knick free, and painted.
As far as stopping the trend I could make a strong argument that grinding the fork near the shaft weakens the tool and should not be done. Especially with tools that have a welded or pinned forks instead of one piece drop forged. That would be my opinion. Why someone preps their tool is their business and as long as it works for them and is not unsafe it should not matter to the rest of us why they do.
That is my 2¢
Cool to see how those two fit together…
Acklan, just curious as to what other options you have used to set the forks of a halligan in lights out conditions other than sliding the axe on the shaft and stricking a squared off shoulder. Please elaborate as to these other options and how they work. Oh and just for the record tools that are welded or that have pinned forks are not really halligans, pro bars are halligans, and the forks are not grinded they are filed down to allow for easier entry into extremaly tight metal doors. I have never encountered a weakened tool using this technique of manicuring
Paul….far be it for a ff from way up north to give a FDNY brother a history lesson on the Halligan versus the Pro Bar or nitpick about details….but check page 20 and 21 of the FDNY Forcible Entry Guide.
Stay safe.
Its really a preference thing. We should not argue who is right and who is wrong. Everyone has a different opinion on what works and what does not. It comes down to doing what YOU and YOUR department like, not what someone 500 miles away in a completely different fire district likes. Thats all I’m saying, engine guys argue not truckies.
[quote]Acklan, just curious as to what other options you have used to set the forks of a halligan in lights out conditions other than sliding the axe on the shaft and stricking a squared off shoulder. Please elaborate as to these other options and how they work. [/quote]
Prior to reading about “squaring off the shoulder” in the forums I never heard of such a modification. To tell the truth I never need such “manicuring” to my bar. I always used it as designed and never needed to “manicure” the fork or pedicure the adz.
[quote]Oh and just for the record tools that are welded or that have pinned forks are not really halligans, pro bars are halligans, and the forks are not grinded they are filed down to allow for easier entry into extremaly tight metal doors. I have never encountered a weakened tool using this technique of manicuring[/quote]
What are they really called? “Almost a halligan?”, “Sorta like a halligan?”, or how about “You wish you were a halligan?” Smug goes both ways Paul.
I do not think I said (wrote) anything about grinding the tips of the forks. I only responded to the “squaring off the shoulder”. Do you file the “squared off shoulder” onto your halligan?
To be honest I have not heard of a halligan failing from the “shoulders squared off”, but again we do not modify our tools in such fashion.
If you wish to be condescending and dismissive I can play that too. I have directly answered the question asked without trying to demean others while they make their point.
You find manicuring your tool works, then great. In 28 years of fire fighting, the last 10 as a company office, I have not had a problem that would warrant “squaring the shoulders” of my halligan. What I have works as designed. The FDNY fire fighter who invented the tool, in my opinion, struck perfection and other than a thicker shaft and a not slip grip I like it as is.
By the way did the inventer call it a ProBar? What did he call his invention?
Dave the halligan used exclusively in the FDNY is the Pro Bar by Fire hooks unlimited.
Acklan Im not being condecending just curious, you state that squaring off the shoulders is not the only option to set the tool when you cant see in a heavy smoke condition. I’d like to know what other options you suggest. Yes we do file down the shoulders of the halligan. We modify our tools to adapt to the challenging forcible entry situations we face everday. Perhaps you have not encountered such challenges in your 28 years.
Like I posted I have found that using it as designed, by setting the forks by striking the end, has always worked for me. Maybe I have just not been in as a demanding environment as you, but either from ambient light or having enough liteboxs on scene we (meaning my crew) have aways managed to use the tool with effect.
Not challenged? Gee thanks. I guess you are right, my career pales in comparison to the big departments, but I am happy with it.
By the way what do they call the tools that look like a halligan, but are welded or pinned? Are they not a halligan?
The tools that are welded or pinned may be called halligans by those who manufacture them, I believe some are commercially known as hooligan bars. But anyone who has forced a door with a Pro Bar type halligan will tell you its the way to go. Every aspect of the “fake” halligan is contrary to the art of forcible entry. The shaft is too thick, the pike is too fat and the forks are way too thick. As far as the the other subject goes, thats great that the ambient light & the light boxes have worked for you, but operating on the floor above the fire, with a heavy smoke condition & a well fortified tenament door proves to be very challenging. I have had to resort to sliding the ax down the shaft on numerous ocasions to set the forks in this situation, & we all had our personal lights on, they did nothing for us. Its like forcing a door with your eyes closed, try it in training one day and you will know what Im talking about.
Paul, I was referring to the FDNY Forcible Entry Guide because it outlines the issues with the original Halligan tool and (as a result) the development of the Pro Bar. Saying a tool which has pins and forks which are too thick aren’t Halligans is like saying the Pro Bar IS a Halligan…..that was my point. The original Halligan had a “blunt fork and short narrow adz”…..something like thos “fake” halligans out there.
Stay safe.
I can honestly see there is some argument over wrapping the halligan and hooks. Most of the argument comes with sliding the striking tool along the shaft of the halligan in a confined or zero visibility situation.
DeBart, I know you and Eddie were curious why we do it and we discussed it for a bit and just wanted to add to the discussion so others may decide what is best for them.
Here in coastal Maine, my department requires us to mount tools outside of the cab. Even with restraint devices, there is an effort made to reduce the potential projectiles inside the rig. It was a fight just to get the can mounted inside to protect it from freezing! That is the policy, so we live with it.
Since our tools are mounted outside of the compartments for easier access. The other component is coastal living. In general, year round everything from rain, fog, snow, ice, even a sea breeze keeps everything damp and wet making things a little slick. The tools always ice up in winter. We wrap our tools to compensate for those issues.
The only things that is a little different is we wrap the tools with heading twine(for repairing fishing nets and lobster gear)which has little smaller diameter thread. We don’t wrap the entire shaft of the tool. Just enough for better grip closer to the adze/pike.
It is a compromise, yet we collectively make that choice from past experiences and feel the benefits outweigh the associated drawbacks of doing so.
Great to read the comments and re access how we operate. Makes for great drills and conversation.
Stay Safe!
Dave,
I am not aware of the reference guide that you speak of, is this an official publication of the department? My reference guide is experience, and the training I recieved from some of the best in the business. Im not saying that to be condesending,but I can speak from experience that several of the “halligans” currently available pale in comparison to the Pro Bar when it comes to forcible entry. Ive done side by side comparisons and can honestly say there is a huge difference. If the “fake” halligans were any good we would be using them.
Paul….you make some very good points. In all honesty my comments were bordering on the petty side…..long week.
The guide can be found here:
http://www.firefactory.com/FE.pdf
It’s a goldmine of info for a newbie like myself.
Take care.
That PDF file should be placed next to all your bibles! Thats all you need to know. Know it, learn it, read it, live it! I work in the same area Paul works in and we can force up to 5 doors a tour! This is no bull. Not all of these doors are forced at fires (water leaks, stuck elevators etc) We’re fourtunate to get real world experience. And we have forcible entry simulators in the firehouse basements. All we can do is pass on what we learn in the feild. Its just that you have guys on these sites re-inventing the wheel. Guys that work in places that don’t do a whole hell of alot. Sometimes you have to get on these sites to set things right for the younger members. What ever I pass on I’ve done for real not just regergitated from a class I took. Good luck!
Any other guides available somewhere at http://www.firefactory.com ?
Thanks for the forcible entry guide link.
Great info here about the simple irons!
We bought a few Pro-Bar halligans awhile back. Also have a couple pinned ones.
The bars are naked right now. Planning on the wrap or dip and comparing it to a bare bar.
I think if you’re worried about the bungee cord melting at the door, you might have a bigger problem than the bungee cord itself…
…..On a lighter note (Some of ya’ll need to hug it out). I Demo’ed a TNT tool. Granted it is not a “real” axe, or a “real” hook it is the closest thing to an all around tool that I know of. I took it to a few courses which provided ample use breaching, breaking, and even a few things that the sales rep might not have wanted me to do. But, where I am from I am having to use my own dollars to purchase such a tool so I need to be sure it is up to the job. I have one on order now, the 8 1/2 pound, 35 inch. The only thing I did not like about the tool was the fiberglas handle started to splinter a bit, so I will be wrapping the handle with something, either dip or tape. I am new to the dip thing. Is it clear? How was the tool labeled?
i thought tool dip was flammable though