Alex Newman sent in these pictures of an interesting supplemental lock he recently came across. Alex was a firefighter with Escambia County (FL) prior to leaving to join the military. Even though he’s currently deployed, he’s still thinking like a firefighter!
As you can see in the image below the supplemental lock is secured with a “guarded” padlock.
Below, the lock has been removed, on the left door you can see the tab that the supplemental lock slides into. On the right door you can see the bracket where the padlock would go when its installed.
Below is the supplemental lock removed.
There are a few different options for forcing this set-up. Bolt cutters would certainly be the quickest, but only if they were readily available. Unless we knew this lock was present ahead of time, but that’s not likely. The tabs on the door are through-bolted and back plated, so the bolts are not likely to be “pulled through” the door by prying. The depth that the padlock is recessed might be the solution. The padlock looks shallow enough that the pike of the halligan could be inserted into the shackle. Once the halligan is in place, a few solid strikes with an 8lb axe would either defeat the padlock or hasp.
The rotary saw is always an option as well. In this case a small cut on the left side of the supplemental lock would defeat it’s attachment point on that door as shown below. Once that is complete, forcing the door traditionally with the irons (above or below the supplemental lock) would complete the task. The supplemental lock would remain attached to the left door, and swing out of the way when that door was opened.
The recessed hole looks like it may prevent opening the bolt cutters enough to get around the lock. It would also make putting any kind of wedge in to try and overpower the locking mechanism the saw might be the only option.
you’d probably still have the irons. just defeat the lock with the haligan
I’m with L Hall. There’s NOTHING that can’t be cured with a set of irons.
I concur with Pj that the bolt cutters aren’t going to fit into the opening. Using the pike of the Halligan and/or duckbill is out for the same reason. If the saw isn’t available it might be possible to use the adz/axe blade inserted behind the plate to shear the bolt heads (“punching” the bolt heads won’t work due to the thickness of the plate). This shearing operation would probably be defeated if the plate was welded to the door frame (which does not appear to be the case here). When operating at the rear of commercial occupancies it’s a good idea to take the saw with you on the initial trip.
F@#k a saw. Stick the forks of the halligan on top of the lock body, hold it as close to a 90 as you can get, it, and strike it with an axe, maul, rubber mallet, your skull, anything and that thing is going to break. I was fixing to argue, but looking closer, I think you’re right, the adz and pike are out. Although, I think if you take a duckbill and stick it through he shackle and wrench it, it would work. The lock is still the weakest part. The fork-Definitely will work.
has anyone ever thought of just ringing the doorbell?
metal door….metal saw
Ding Dong….